G

Gages.—The cultivation of Gages is similar to that of Plums. In
the open they may be grown as dwarfs or pyramids, and in orchard-houses
as gridirons, cordons, or in pots. The chief points to observe are to
thin the branches in order to admit plenty of light into the middle of
the tree, thus inducing the production of a plentiful supply of fruit
spurs, and to occasionally lift and root-prune the tree if growing too
strong. Among the choicest sorts are: Bonne Bouche (producing its fruit
at the end of August), Coe’s Golden Drop (end of September), Old Green
Gage (August), Guthrie’s Late Green Gage (September), M’Laughlin’s Gage
(end of August), Oullin’s Golden Gage (end of August), and Reine Claude
de Bavay (beginning of October).

Gaillardia (Blanket Flower).—Very ornamental flowers, which will
grow in any common soil, but thrive most in a light, rich one. Seeds of
the annual kinds are sown in the spring. The perennials are increased by
dividing the roots. Bloom in July. Height, 1 ft. to 2 ft.

Galanthus.—See “Snowdrops.”

Galax Aphylla (Wand Plant).—The Heart-shaped Galax is a charming
little plant for rock-work. It is perennial, and does not lose the old
leaves till the new ones appear. A rich, light mould is required for its
growth, and its situation should be a somewhat shady one. Its flowers
are borne in July and August, on stalks 1 ft. or more high. The plant
may be increased by taking up a strong clump, shaking it apart, and
transplanting at once. (See also “Shortia.”)

Galega (Goats Rue).—Ornamental hardy perennials, requiring
plenty of room. They are readily increased by seed or division of the
root, and flower in July. Height, 3 ft. to 4 ft.

Galium.—This hardy herbaceous plant blooms in July. It will grow
in any soil, and can be increased by division of the root. Height, 1 ft.

Gardenias.—Plant in a hothouse in fibrous peat mixed with a large
proportion of sand. Give plenty of heat and moisture during growth, with
a thin shade to keep off the sun’s midday rays. Lower the temperature as
soon as growth is completed, and in the middle of summer stand the
plants out in the open for a week or two for the wood to ripen. Height,
3 ft.

Garlic.—Plant small cloves from February to April in rows 9 in.
apart and 6 in. from each other in the row. Lift them when the leaves
die down, dry them in the sunshine, and store in an airy, cool shed.

Garrya Elliptica.—A hardy evergreen shrub, which is very suitable
in its early stages for pot-culture. A light, loamy soil is what it
likes. Cuttings taken in August and placed in sand under a hand-glass
will strike freely, but it is most readily increased by layers. In
October it bears graceful yellowish-green tassels of flowers from the
ends of its shoots. Height, 6 ft.

Gasteria Verrucosa.—This plant grows best in pots of turfy loam
and leaf-mould, to which has been added a little old mortar. Good
drainage is essential. Water freely in summer, and keep just moist in
winter. Keep the foliage clean by sponging. Give plenty of light, and
during warm weather turn the plants out of doors.

Gastrolobium.—Elegant evergreen shrubs which flower in April and
May. They are most suitable for adorning the greenhouse, and grow best
in a soil of loamy peat and sand. Cuttings of half-ripened wood planted
under glass will take root. Height, 2 ft.

Gaultheria.—Dwarf, creeping evergreen shrubs, having dark foliage
and producing white flowers in May, June, or July. They require to be
grown in peat, and are increased by layers. G. Procumbens is suitable
for rockeries, as it only grows to the height of 6 in. G. Shallon
attains the height of 2 ft.

Gaura Lindheimeri.—This free-flowering, hardy, herbaceous plant
will thrive in any light, rich soil. It bears elegant spikes of white
flowers from May onwards, followed by red bracts in September, and is
readily propagated by seeds. Height, 4 ft.

Gazania Splendens.—A showy greenhouse plant. It may be planted in
the open in warm positions, but will require protecting in winter. Grow
it in peat and loam. Cuttings will strike if placed in sand under glass.
It flowers in July. Height, 1 ft.

Genethyllis.—Greenhouse evergreen shrubs which thrive best in
sandy loam and peat. Cuttings of the young wood planted in the same soil
and plunged in heat will take root. Their flowering season is in August.
Height, 3 ft.

Genista (Broom).—G. Canariense is an exceedingly ornamental and
free-flowering greenhouse shrub. It should be planted in a mixture of
loam, peat, and sand. Young cuttings inserted in sand under a glass take
root readily. It blooms in June. Height, 2 ft. Hardy species of Genista
may be placed in the front of shrubberies. They are increased by seeds
or by layers.

Gentians.—The herbaceous kinds do best in a light, rich soil, such
as loam and peat mixed with vegetable mould. The annuals are raised from
seed sown as soon as it is ripe; if left till spring before it is sown
it will probably not come up till the second year. The perennials are
increased by dividing the roots. Both of the latter kinds do best in a
dry, sandy soil. Gentiana Acaulis, or Gentianella, is very suitable for
edgings, or for rock-work; it is an evergreen creeper, and bears large
trumpet-shaped flowers of rich ultramarine blue. All the Gentians need
plenty of free air, and some of them moisture at the roots. Bloom in
July. Height, 4 in. to 2 ft.

Geranium Argentium(Silvery Crane’s-Bill).—This hardy perennial
alpine is very effective on rock-work, especially in front of dark
stones; but provision must be made for its long tap roots. A rich, deep
loam suits it well. Its seeds germinate freely when sown in peat and
sand. Flowers are borne from May to July. Height, 6 in.

Geraniums.—Take cuttings in July or August, and let them he to
partially dry for twenty-four hours before planting. When rooted pot
them off in 60’s, and keep them under glass during the winter at a
temperature of 55 degrees. If the cuttings are taken in September put
three or four slips in a 48-size pot. In the spring they should be
re-potted singly and hardened off as early as possible. A suitable soil
for them is made by mixing two parts of good turfy loam, one of
leaf-mould, one of well-decomposed cow-dung, and a good proportion of
silver sand. Bone dust is an excellent addition to the soil. Old plants
stripped of their leaves may be packed in sand during the winter, and
re-potted in spring.

Gerardia.—These hardy perennials form pyramidal bushes bearing
Pentstemon-like flowers, thickly set and varying in colour from light
pink to dark purple. A peat soil suits them best. They may be propagated
by cuttings placed under glass, but are best grown from seed. July is
their flowering season. Height, 1 ft. to 2 ft.

German Seeds.—These require to be sown in a cold frame in
seed-pans, in the greenhouse, or under a handglass, in good, rich
compost, composed of old turf, leaf-mould, some well-rotted manure, and
silver sand. The seeds should be sown thinly and watered sparingly. Sow
early in April, and transplant in the middle or end of May in rich soil.
Water occasionally with weak liquid manure.

Gesneria.—Handsome greenhouse perennials. They thrive in any
light, rich soil. Cuttings will strike readily either in sand or soil if
placed under glass in heat. They may also be raised from seed sown in a
temperature of 75 degrees in March or April. They flower in October.
Height, 18 in.

Geum.—Very handsome hardy perennials. They grow well in any light,
rich, loamy soil, and may be increased either by seeds or by dividing
the roots. G. Coccineum is extremely pretty. Flower in July. Height, 18
in.

Gherkins.—Sow the seed the first week in April in small pots, and
cover it lightly with fine soil. Plunge the pots in a hotbed covered
with a frame. When grown to nice little plants, remove them to a cold
frame to harden, and plant them out on a warm border towards the end of
May. When the fruit begins to form, give liquid manure twice a week. For
pickling they must be cut while small.

Gilia.—Extremely pretty and free-flowering hardy annuals,
deserving of a place in every garden. They are very suitable for small
beds. They should be sown in the open early in spring. G. Tricolour may
be sown in autumn. Bloom in July. Height, 1 ft.

Gillenia Trifoliata.—The Three-Leaved Gillenia is a hardy
herbaceous perennial which is very useful as a cut flower for the
decoration of vases, etc. It should be grown in large clumps, delights
in a deep, moist soil and partial shade, and may be propagated by
dividing the roots early in spring. It lasts in bloom from June to
August. Height, 1 ft.

Gladiolus.—Dig the ground out to a depth of 1 ft. or 15 in.; put in a
layer of leaf-mould or rotted manure, and then 4 or 5 in. of earth mixed
with sand; insert the bulbs (6 in. from the surface and 9 in. apart),
cover them with 1 in. of sand, and fill up with earth. In frosty weather
cover with a thick layer of litter. Give plenty of water when they begin
to throw up their flower-stems. They may be planted at any time between
December and the end of March. If planted late in the season, a depth of
3 or 4 in. is enough. The roots must be kept dry in winter. They are
increased by off-sets, taken when the bulbs are removed from the ground
after the leaves have turned yellow. These should be planted at once in
well-drained earth. If early flowers are required, plant the old bulbs
in pots (three to six bulbs being placed in a 5-in. pot) any time
between December and March. Give them frame culture up to the second
week in May, when they may be transferred to the border. The flowers are
invaluable for vase decoration.

Glaucium Flavum Tricolor (Hardy Horn Poppy).—The large,
brilliant, orange-red flowers of this plant are very effective in the
border, and the bloom is continuous during the greater part of the
summer. The seed is rather slow to germinate, but when sown in the open
ground in autumn, it blooms from June to August; when sown in early
spring it flowers from July to September. Height, 2 ft.

Glaux Maritima (Sea Milkweed).—A pretty little hardy trailing
plant bearing flesh-coloured flowers in June and July. It grows in sandy
loam, and is raised from seed sown in spring. Height, 3 in.

Globe Amaranthus (Gomphrena).—This tender annual is well known
for its clover-like heads of everlasting flowers. It will grow in any
rich soil, but to produce really fine plants, much attention must be
given to shifting, watering, etc. Increased by seed in the same manner
as other tender annuals. Blooms in July. Height, 1 ft.

Globe Flower.—See “Trollius.”

Globe Thistle.—See “Echinops.”

Globularia Trichosantha.—A pretty dwarf perennial rock-plant
bearing pale blue flowers in May and June. It is hardy, thrives in
light, sandy soil, and is increased by either seeds or cuttings planted
in sand. Height, 6 in. The greenhouse varieties of Globularia grow best
in loam and peat.

Glory of the Snow.—See “Chionodoxa.”

Gloxinias.—A very ornamental family of tuberous-rooted hothouse
plants. They are of two classes, the drooping and the erect. Pot at any
time during January and March in a mixture of equal quantities of loam,
peat, and sand, with the addition of a little vegetable soil, and place
in a warm (60 degrees), moist temperature, where they can be favoured
with a little shade. In summer supply the roots plentifully with water,
but give them very little in winter. Overhead watering is likely to rot
the leaves and flowers. G. Maculata is increased by division. The leaves
of most of the others, if taken off close to the stem, and planted, will
soon make young plants. They may be raised from seed sown from March to
July in a hothouse or frame having a temperature of 65 to 75 degrees.
They flower in June, and on into September. Height, 6 in. to 1 ft.

Glycine.—See “Wistaria” and “Apios.”

Gnaphalium (Edelweiss).—Hardy everlasting flowers, which are
covered with a woolly substance. They may be grown in any light, rich
soil. The shrubby and herbaceous kinds may be increased by cuttings or
division. The annuals are easily raised from seed. They flower in July.
Height, 1 ft.

Goat’s Rue.—See “Galega.”

Godetia.—Very pretty hardy annuals, that may be grown in any
garden soil. Sow in the autumn for early flowering, or in spring for
later blooms. July is their ordinary season of coming into flower.
Height, 1-1/2 ft. to 2 ft.

Golden Feather.—Hardy annual foliage plants. They are not
particular as to soil, and are easily raised from seed sown early in
spring. They bloom in July. Height, 1 ft.

Golden Rod.—See “Solidago.”

Gompholobium.—Delicate greenhouse evergreen shrubs requiring a
soil of sandy loam and peat and but little water. They flower in June,
and are propagated by cuttings planted in sand under glass. Height, 2
ft.

Gomphrena.—See “Globe Amaranthus.”

Gooseberries.—From the middle of October to the end of November is
the best time for planting. To produce good crops the soil should be
rich, deep, and well drained. The position should be somewhat cool and
sheltered, and a liberal quantity of liquid manure is beneficial. In dry
seasons mulching may be resorted to with advantage. Cuttings are taken
in autumn as soon as the leaves begin to fall. Select strong shoots
about 1 ft. long. Cut the bottom end straight across, just below a
joint, and with a sharp knife remove all the buds or eyes from the base
to within a couple of inches of the top, so as to prevent the formation
of suckers. Plant the shoots firmly 3 in. deep, in rows 1 ft. apart and
6 in. apart in the rows, on a north border. At the end of the second
season cut back all leading shoots to two-thirds of their length. In
after years remove weak and superfluous branches, as also any that are
growing near the ground, but plenty of young wood must always be left on
the bushes. The pruning may be done either in spring or autumn. The
following varieties may be recommended:—Red, White, and Yellow
Champagne, Wilmot’s Early Red, Golden Drop, Ironmonger, and Warrington
Red for dessert; while for preserving and culinary purposes Old Rough
Red, Conquering Hero, Favourite, Broom Girl, British Crown, Ironsides,
Lady Leicester, Thumper, Green Walnut, Leader, and Moreton Hero may be
classed among the leading varieties. When grown in bush form ample room
must be allowed between each to enable one to get round the bushes to
gather the fruit.

Gooseberry Caterpillar.—To prevent caterpillars attacking
Gooseberries syringe the bushes with a decoction of common foxglove
(Digitalis), or dust the leaves with Hellebore powder. If the
caterpillar has begun its attack, sprinkle some fresh lime below the
bushes, and shake the bushes vigorously, so that the insects are
dislodged.

Gorse.—See “Ulex.”

Gourds.—Sow at the end of March or the beginning of April on a
slight hotbed; pot off when the plants are sufficiently advanced, and
transplant to the open border in June. They are well adapted for
arbours, trellis-work, or sloping banks. The following are among the
most ornamental:—Abobra Viridiflora, Benincasa Cerifera (Wax Gourd),
Bryonopsis Erythrocarpa, Coccinea Indica (scarlet fruit), Cucumis
Anguinus (Serpent Gourd), Cucumis Dipsaceus (Teasel Gourd), Cucumis
Dudaim (Balloon Gourd), Cucumis Erinaceus (Hedgehog Gourd), Cucumis
Grossularoides (Gooseberry Gourd), Cucumis Perennis, Cucurbita
Argyrosperma, Cucurbita Melopepo, Cyclanthera Explodens (Bombshell
Gourd), Cyclanthera Pedata, Eopepon Aurantiacum, Eopepon Vitifolius,
Lagenaria Clavata (Club Gourd), Lagenaria Enormis, Lagenaria Leucantha
Depressa, Lagenaria Leucantha Longissima, Lagenaria Plate de Corse,
Lagenaria Poire a Poudre, Lagenaria Siphon, Luffa Cylindrica, Luffa
Solly Qua, Melothria Scabra, Momordica Balsamina, Momordica Charantia,
Momordica Elaterium, Mukia Scabrella, Scotanthus Tubiflorus,
Trichosanthes Anguina, Trichosanthes Coccinea, Trichosanthes Colubrina,
and Trichosanthes Palmata.

Grafting.—The objects of Grafting are to bring a bush or tree into
an earlier state of bearing than it would do naturally; to produce good
fruit from an inferior plant; and to save space by putting dwarf scions
on to rampant-growing trees. By the process of uniting strong-growing
trees to those of a weaker nature their exuberance is checked, and
weaker ones are improved by being worked on those of a stronger growth.
Whatever form of Grafting is adopted, the inner layers of the bark of
the stock or tree on which the operation is performed, must be brought
into direct contact with the inner layers of the bark of the branch
which is grafted, or, as it is called, the scion. This scion should be a
branch of the early growth of the previous year’s wood, and should be in
the same state of vegetation as the stock. If the scion is in a more
advanced state than the stock, its growth may be stopped by cutting it
off and burying it in the earth under a north wall until the stock has
advanced sufficiently in growth. Grafting of all kinds is best done in
March, when the sap is flowing freely. Many methods of Grafting are
adopted, the following being the principal:—

Whip or Tongue Grafting is suitable for almost any description of trees.
Saw the stock off level at any desired height, then make a deep upward
slanting cut through the bark at the top 2 or 3 in. in length, and in
the middle of the cut turn the knife downwards and cut out a thin
wedge-shaped socket. Next cut the scion in a similar manner so that it
will fit exactly into the incision of the stock, bringing the bark of
each into direct contact. Bind it firmly in position, and cover it over,
from the top of the stock to the bottom of the scion, with grafting wax
or clay. When the scion and the stock are united, which is demonstrated
by the former making growth, remove the wax and cut away all shoots that
may be produced on the stock.

In the French mode of Grafting known as the Bertemboise, the crown of
the stock is cut at a long level, about 1 in. at the top being left
square, and an angular piece is cut away in which the scion is inserted.
It is then bound and waxed over.

Theophrastes or Rind Grafting is used where a tree has strong roots but
inferior fruit. The branches are cut off about 1-1/2 or 2 ft. from the
main stem. A sharp cut 2 or 3 in. in length is made down the bark of the
branches, and the lower parts of the scion, selected from a superior
tree, having been cut into tongues resembling the mouth-piece of a
flageolet, the bark of the branches is lifted with a knife, and the
tongues of the scions are slipped in, bound, and waxed.

Side Grafting is useful where it is desired to replenish the tree with a
fresh branch. A T-shaped cut is made in the stem of the tree,
extending to the inner bark; the scion is prepared by a longitudinal
sloping cut of the same length as that in the stem, into which it is
inserted, and the two are bound together and treated like other grafts.

Approach Grafting is the most favourable method of obtaining choice
varieties of the vine, or of growing weak sorts on roots of a stronger
growth. The scion is generally grown in a pot. A portion of the bark is
cut from both scion and stock while the vine is in active growth, and
the two wounded parts brought into contact, so that they fit exactly.
They are then tied together, and moss (kept constantly wet) is bound
round the parts. The union may be completed by the following spring, but
it is safer to leave the cutting down of the stock to the point of union
and the separation of the scion from the potted plant until the second
spring.

Grafting Wax (Cobbetts), etc.—Pitch and resin four parts
each, beeswax two parts, tallow one part. Melt and mix the ingredients,
and use when just warm. It may be rolled into balls and stored in a dry
place.

Clay bands are frequently employed for excluding the air from wounds
caused in the process of grafting. These are liable to crack, unless the
clay is well kneaded and mixed with wood ashes or dry horse droppings.

Grapes.—The cultivation of Grapes in the open in our cloudy and
changeable climate cannot be looked forward to with any certainty of
success. Two successive favourable seasons are indispensable—one to
ripen the wood, and the next to ripen the fruit. Nevertheless, the
highly ornamental foliage of the vine entitles it to a place on our
walls, and every facility should be afforded for the production of a
chance crop of fruit. The soil most suited to the growth of the vine is
a medium loam, with which is incorporated a quantity of crushed chalk
and half-inch bones. It should be given a south aspect, and be liberally
supplied with water in dry seasons. April is the best time to plant it,
spreading the roots out equally about 9 in. below the surface of the
soil, and mulching with 3 or 4 in. of manure. Should mildew set in,
syringe the vine with a mixture of soapsuds and sulphur. To secure a
continuance of fruit, cut out some of the old rods each year as soon as
the leaves fall, and train young shoots in their places. Last year’s
shoots produce other shoots the ensuing summer, and these are the
fruit-bearers. One bunch of grapes is enough for a spur to carry.
Professional gardeners cast off the weight of the bunches, and allow 1
ft. of rod to each pound of fruit. Tie or nail the bunches to the
trellis or wall, and remove all branches or leaves that intercept light
and air.

The vine may be increased by layers at the end of September. Cut a notch
at a bud, and bury it 4 or 5 in. deep, leaving two or three eyes above
ground. It may also be propagated by cuttings, about 1 ft. in length, of
the last year’s growth, with 1 in. of old wood attached, taken the
latter end of February. Plant these deep in the ground, leaving one eye
only above the surface. Both the Black Hamburgh and Royal Muscadine
ripen as well as any in the open.

It is under glass only that Grapes can be brought to perfection. Here a
night temperature of 55 to 65 degrees, with a rise of 5 or 10 degrees in
the day, should be maintained, the walls and paths damped once or twice
a day, and the vine syringed frequently until it comes into bloom, when
syringing must cease, and a drier atmosphere is necessary; the moisture
being reduced by degrees. As the grapes ripen, admit more air, and
reduce the heat, otherwise the fruit will shrivel. After gathering the
grapes syringe the vine frequently to clear it from spiders or dust, and
keep the house cool to induce rest to the plant. The fruit may be
preserved for a long while in a good condition by cutting it with about
1 ft. of the rod attached, and inserting the cuttings in bottles of
water in which a piece of charcoal is placed: the bottles to be placed
in racks nailed on to an upright post in any room or cellar where an
equable temperature of 45 or 50 degrees can be kept up. The system of
pruning adopted is that known as spur pruning (see “Pruning”). Mrs.
Pearson is a very fine variety, and produces very sweet berries; the
Frontignan Grizzly Black and White are also delicious.

Grasses, Natural—

AGROSTIS STOLONIFERA (Creeping Bent Grass).—Useful for damp
meadows.

ALOPECURUS PRATENSIS (Meadow Foxtail).—Strong-growing and very
nutritious.

ANTHOXANTHUM ODORATUM (True Sweet Vernal),—Hardy and gives
fragrance to hay.

AVENA FLAVESCENS (Yellow Oat Grass).—Fine for sheep; grows freely
on light soils.

CYNOSURUS CRISTATUS (Crested Dogstail).—Suitable for any soil.

DACTYLIS GLOMERATA (Cocksfoot).—Strong and coarse-growing; cattle
are fond of it.

FESTUCA DURIUSCULA (Hard Fescue).—Dwarf-growing; excellent for
sheep.

FESTUCA ELATIOR (Tall Fescue).—Useful for cold, strong soils.

FESTUCA OVINA (Sheep’s Fescue).—Fine for dry, sandy soils.

FESTUCA OVINA TENUIFOLIA (Slender Fescue).—Suitable for mountain
pastures.

FESTUCA PRATENSIS (Meadow Fescue).—Good permanent grass for rich,
moist soil.

PHLEUM PRATENSE (Timothy, or Catstail).—Suitable for strong soils;
nutritious and hardy.

POA NEMORALIS (Wood Meadow Grass).—Good for poor soils.

POA PRATENSIS (Smooth-stalked Meadow Grass).—Grows well on light,
dry soil, and also in water-meadows.

POA TRIVIALIS (Rough-stalked Meadow Grass).—Fine for damp soil.

Grasses, Ornamental.—Fine for mixing in a green state with cut
flowers, or in a dried condition for the decoration of vases, winter
bouquets, etc. To have them in perfection gather them while quite fresh,
with the pollen on them. Cut with as long stems as possible, arrange
lightly in vases, and keep them in the dark till they are dried and the
stems become stiff. The Grasses may be divided into two sections, viz.,
those for bouquets or edgings, and those grown in the border or on lawns
for specimen plants. The class is numerous, but the following (which may
be found described herein under alphabetical classification) may be
mentioned:—

For bouquets and edgings: Agrostis, Anthoxanthum, Avena, Briza, Coix
Lachryma, Eragrostis, Festuca, Hordeum Jubatum, Lagurus, and Stipa
Pennata. For specimen plants: Eulalia, Gynerium, Panicum, Phalaris, and
Zea.

Gratiola Officinalis.—This hardy herbaceous plant bears light blue
flowers in July. A rich, moist soil is its delight. It is propagated by
dividing the roots. Height, 1 ft.

Green Fly.—Fumigate the infected plants with tobacco, and
afterwards syringe them with clear water; or the plants may be washed
with tobacco water by means of a soft brush.

Grevillea.—Handsome greenhouse shrubs, which require a mould
composed of equal parts of peat, sand, and loam. Give plenty of water in
summer, a moderate amount at other seasons. Ripened cuttings may be
rooted in sand, under a glass. Young plants may also be obtained from
seed. They bloom in June. Their common height is from 3 to 4 ft., but G.
Robusta attains a great height. Grevilleas will grow well in windows
facing south.

Griselinia Littoralis.—A dwarf-growing, light-coloured evergreen
shrub, which will thrive near the sea. It requires a light, dry soil,
and may be increased by cuttings.

Guelder Rose.—See “Viburnum.”

Guernsey Lily (Nerine Sarniense).—Soil, strong, rich loam with
sand, well drained. Plant the bulbs deeply in a warm, sheltered
position, and let them remain undisturbed year by year. Keep the beds
dry in winter, and protect the roots from frost. They also make good
indoor plants, potted in moss or cocoa-nut fibre in September, or they
may be grown in vases of water.

Gumming of Trees.—Scrape the gum off, wash the place thoroughly
with clear water, and apply a compost of horse-dung, clay, and tar.

Gunnera Manicata (Chilian Rhubarb).—This hardy plant bears large
leaves on stout foot-stalks, and is very ornamental in the backs of
borders, etc. Planted in a rich, moist soil, it will flower in August.
It can be propagated by division. Height, 6 ft.

Gunnera Scabra.—Has gigantic leaves, 4 to 5 ft. in diameter, on
petioles 3 to 6 ft. in length. It prefers a moist, shady position, and
bears division. Makes a fine addition to a sub-tropical garden, where it
will flower in August. Height, 6 ft.

Gynerium (Pampas Grass).—This unquestionably is the grandest of
all grasses, and is sufficiently hardy to endure most of our winters. It
is, however, desirable to give it some protection. It requires a deep,
rich, alluvial soil, with plenty of room and a good supply of water.
Plants may be raised from seed sown thinly in pots during February or
March, barely covering it with very fine soil, and keeping the surface
damp. Plant out at end of May. They will flower when three or four years
old. The old leaves should be allowed to remain on till the new ones
appear, as they afford protection to the plant. It may be increased by
division of the root. Height, 7 ft.

Gypsophila.—Of value for table bouquets, etc. They will grow in
any soil, but prefer a chalky one. The herbaceous kinds are increased by
cuttings; the annuals are sown in the open either in autumn or spring.
They bloom during July and August. Height, 1 ft. to 3 ft.